Custom meat shop re-opens

In 1889, an immigrant traveled to America with a recipe for German sausage that would last throughout generations. That recipe is still intact today, at a small butcher shop just outside Lind. The owners of this famous recipe are the Schoonover family, who plan to keep the recipe a secret forever.

Charles (Charlie) and Loretta Schoonover opened CL Meats over 20 years ago, after Charlie decided to retire from the farming business. It had always been a dream of his to open a custom meat shop and he saw it more as a hobby than a job.

The current CL Meats is located outside of Lind at the Schoonover’s house where they have lived since 1998. The business thrived for 16 years until Charlie feel ill and the business closed during the fall of last year. Charlie passed away suddenly on Oct. 28, leaving the business and a loving family behind.

On Jan. 7, the Schoonover’s grandson, Justin Wilks, moved from Jerome, Idaho to help his grandmother re-open the business that had been such a large part of the family’s life. Wilks moved with his wife of six years, Shayna, four-year-old daughter, Jaden, and 18-month-old twins, Bella and Aaron.

After a week of settling in with his family in Ritzville, Wilks joined his grandmother and officially re-opened CL Meats on Jan. 16. The pair not only has a great relationship, but work well together, and the witty banter in the shop keeps smiles on their faces during the work day.

“We moved so I could help take over the business. Grandpa worked hard for this, and I just wanted to fulfill his dream,” said Wilks. “We wanted to keep it in the family, and make sure it was owned and operated by family too.”

Wilks spent a lot of time in the shop during his youth, watching his grandfather and helping out whenever he could. Wilks grew up in Enterprise, Ore., but spent most of his summers visiting his grandparents and helping out on the farm and in the shop.

The most important thing about re-opening CL Meats is that the sausage the business is famous for continues to be made. The family beams with pride over the sausage and swears the recipe is always to remain top-secret; only certain family members are privy to the information.

“If you’re up in Ritzville, and you say something about ‘Charlie Schoonover’s famous sausage,’ everyone is going to know what you’re talking about,” said Shayna. “It’s pretty much what keeps the business running!”

The best part about re-opening the business is that repeat customers are already putting in orders. At the end of this week, Loretta and Justin plan to be busy with the 250 pounds of the famous sausage that the Lind Gun Club ordered.

The next large order that is already planned is the 1,300 pounds of sausage that has been ordered for the sausage fair that takes place in Sprague during March. Loretta swears that it is impossible to keep the sausage sitting on the shelf because it is in such high demand.

“We are a custom meat shop, that’s what is most important. A customer can tell me what they want and I will do it,” said Wilks.

Wilks takes care of the majority of cutting in the shop, and safety is a high priority in order to avoid injuries. Even though no serious injuries have ever occurred, the family does not want to start now.

CL Meats deals with all types of meat, but the most common type is beef. The shop can only hold three beef carcasses at a time, which is why carcasses are “by appointment only,” to ensure there is space for the meat.

All of the meat in CL Meats is USDA inspected and approved, since they receive the meat from a slaughtering company in Moses Lake. CL Meats is solely a butcher shop, not a slaughterhouse.

The business’ success is attributed mainly to repeat customers and hunting season, when the shop is filled with deer that local hunters bring in. The variety of choices at the shop also helps bring in customers, such as having the option of cured or smoked meats.

Before the Wilks’ moved to Ritzville, they lived on a dairy farm that Shayna’s family has owned since her childhood. Justin is glad that his daughter Jaden had the experience of living on a dairy farm before they moved to help re-open the butcher shop.

“Living on the dairy helped to teach her that life and death is constant. She’s not freaked out by the meat or carcasses at all. She actually helped us measure and weigh hamburger the other day,” said Wilks. “Being out here, the kids have freedom and peace of mind.”

While Justin takes care of cutting up the meat, Shayna takes care of the books, monitors meat prices to remain competitive and maintains the website. Justin’s mother, Mary Wilks, is the quality control individual for the shop.

“I’m under supervision all the time,” joked Justin. “Especially with my mom and wife working up here with me.”

“And don’t worry, when I’m not here, Loretta is to give him a smack in the back of the head,” laughed Shayna, as Loretta chuckled with a slight nod.

The family works together and shares not only laughter, but also the understanding of why they are there: to keep Charlie’s dream alive.

The most recent change to CL Meats after the opening is that meat can be ordered and delivered to the customer. The orders must be over $40, prepaid and the customer must be within the city limits of Lind or Ritzville.

“If there are out-of-towners that want to meet us in the McDonald’s parking lot in Ritzville, we’ll do it. As long as we’re meeting within the city limits of Lind or Ritzville, we can deliver, with no additional fee,” said Shayna.

CL Meats also packages the meat based on the customer’s request, but do not cut half-inch steaks or do a half-pound of hamburger. Organizations and customers are welcome to visit the shop to watch how the meat is cut and packaged.

“We have organizations come out to visit. They package their own order so it is the size that they want and exactly how they want it,” said Justin. “We work with whoever comes through the door to give them exactly what they want.”

If interested in purchasing an Easter ham or prime rib from CL Meats, the deadline for orders is Mar. 12, in order to guarantee that the hams can be purchased and delivered from the suppliers in time.

CL Meats is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. The shop is open on Saturday, but by appointment only. The shop is closed Sundays and on all major holidays.

CL Meats is located at 1497 Lind-Ralston Road in Ritzville. To contact CL Meats, call the shop at 659-0452 or call Justin Wilks at 509-380-6746 or by email at [email protected]. For more information on the business, visit the website, www.clmeats.com.